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Scene of countless stopovers by motorists hurtling down to the South of France, Dijon is much more than a convenient place to break your journey. Pride of place is taken by a gigantic casting of his La Marseillaise frieze that decorates the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Its flagship boutique in Place Bossuet is like stepping into a fairytale.
Part of MGallery by Sofitel, this classy five star has plush contemporary rooms as well as a spa and a sophisticated bar. The equally classy restaurant, Les Jardins by La Cloche, looks out over the interior landscaped garden. If you want your own courtyard, book La Naturelle. Its bright rooms are mainly modern in style, although a few have exposed beams to add a traditional touch.
The standout dish is poached eggs and ravioli in a creamy sauce made of Epoisses cheese. Keep things classic with a starter of escargots dripping with garlic butter, followed by beef cheeks cooked slowly in red wine and served with mash.
Menus change but could include duckling with beetroot and butternut squash, or pan-fried pollock with a delicate lemongrass sauce. Cosy in winter, it comes alive in the summer when the central area is covered with tables and umbrellas. Its selection of straight-from-the-farm cheeses, charcuterie, cakes, wines and craft beers is exceptional, and you can taste before you buy.
The outdoor stands are tempting enough, but check out the stalls inside, especially Le Gourmet deli. Only a few of the original gargoyles remain, as, according to tradition, most had been destroyed after one had fallen and killed a pedestrian centuries ago. But in the 19th century, replacement gargoyles were created and they now crouch menacingly over the street.